From Himeji we took a bullet train to Hiroshima. Japan has an extensive public transportation system. If we were in America it would be almost impossible to spend a day exploring two cities that were hundreds of miles apart, but on a bullet train that travels upwards to 200 miles an hour, this kind of touring is more than possible. Traveling on trains in Japan can also be very expensive, for both of us to ride the bullet train round trip to Hiroshima would cost $150 dollars. However, for foreigners, Japan offers this great deal called the JR Rail Pass. For about $230, you can ride any train around Japan for 1 week (this includes all JR ferries, trams, and street cars). Anyway, we jumped on this super fast train and rode 45minutes to Hiroshima. The only thing to do as a tourist in Hiroshima is visit the Peace Park and Museum. This was a sobering experience so say the least. It’s amazing that a city that lost over half its population in a flash of fire and radiation would construct a “Peace” park in memory of that day. In America, we construct memorials for sure, but we rarely talk of peace when it comes to attacks on our people. The museum seemed very fair, although it was absolutely anti-nuclear weapons. Part of the museum was made up of clothes of children who were able to run home before they died of burns and radiation poisoning. Each tattered piece of clothing told another child’s story of horror and pain. One of the most gruesome sights was the skin and fingernails of one young boy who died the day of the bombing. The skin and nails melted from in his body and fell off in his bed when he was moved to be buried. His mother saved these pieces of her son so show his father who was off fighting the war. The other incredible exhibit was a piece of the famous bomb dome that still stands in shambles outside the museum. On the stairs outside the building remains a shadow of a man who sat waiting for the building to open when the bomb hit. The blast left a permanent impression of the man in the concrete. There is a shrine outside where you can pray for peace for the souls who died that day. Every year on August 6th, the people of Hiroshima come to the park for a memorial service. As part of the service, the people of the city lay on the ground to represent the hundreds of thousands of people who died that day. Although it was good to see, I was happy to leave that place.
No longer in a 4-star hotel room. This was our tiny but cozy hotel room in Hiroshima.
4 comments:
How devastatingly sad. Even with war politics, I see it as such a blight in human history. Killing hundreds of thousands innocent civilians is never justifiable in my book. The Japanese are truly remarkable to be so forgiving.
Like Becca, I can't believe those sad stories, and the ability to forgive. Americans are definitely a different breed from the Japanese. I can't believe you guys bought a new camera!! Of course I'm happy you did so I can see your adventures. It's just funny.
I have to take a break from the internet because we move tonight...so if I am late in commenting, don't worry. I'll be back soon and ready to read all about your travels!
I hate to be a dork, and really don't want to tread on people's firmly-held beliefs, but perhaps to tunnel down to the real poignance of the memorial.
The Japanese learned forgiveness the hard way, and they learned it from Douglas MacArthur, among many others. A lot of history went into that forgiveness.
It is very sobering to read about Hamburg and Nanjing and Midway, and the defense preparations in the Home Islands. It's a hard question without a satisfying answer, the rightness (or not) of Hiroshima.
What is not so difficult is the comparison of Hiroshima to Hamburg, where it comes out behind as far as death and horror. The mass civilian murder and enslavement at Nanjing (and other instances in China) are, if anything, more horrific - 300,000 deaths done one-on-one, compared to 120,000 in Hiroshima, most in a matter of seconds.
They did not become blameless when the bombs fell and destroyed people in their hundreds of thousands. The past didn't go away. Did the bombs prevent the deaths of hundreds of thousands more? Perhaps - we cannot know. Were their deaths less or more horrifying than the alternative? Probably less, when all is said and done.
Their peace memorial is not just outward looking, absolving the guilt of the US - it's a reminder of the consequences of Japan's own adventures and their results. Each person lying on the ground (hopefully) remembers not just the tragedy of the death they symbolize, but the extremity that it resulted from as well.
Japan now has peace under the aegis of the West. May they (and we) long enjoy it.
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